CURING CANCER WITH HEMP OIL
THE DO IT YOURSELF GUIDE
For those of you who have watched the documentary "Run from the Cure", this should answer any questions about producing your own oil. I recommend that people grow their own hemp either in a small indoor grow system or outdoors. Growing it yourself will eliminate the high cost associated with buying hemp from drug dealers. The cost of hemp can vary greatly from dealer to dealer and so can the quality of the hemp. For anyone new to growing hemp a good book or video on the subject is a necessity. If you go to Cannabis Culture, the good people there should be able to point you in the right direction. PRODUCING YOUR OWN OIL FOR MEDICINAL USE
I usually work with a pound or more of bud from very potent high quality Indica or Indica dominant Sativa crosses. An ounce of good bud will usually produce 3 to 4 grams of high grade oil and the amount of oil produced will vary from strain to strain. So you are never really sure how much oil you will get, until you have processed the material you are working with. But on average a pound of good bud will usually produce about 60 grams of high grade oil and sometimes you may even get a bit more. Many people will try to tell you that the oil should be amber and that you should be able to see through it, in many cases the oils that I produced were exactly like that. But the color and texture of the oil you are producing depends a great deal on the strain and solvent that you are using to produce the oil. So don't be concerned if the oil you produce happens to be darker in color, this does not mean that it is any less potent as a medicine.
The process that I am about to describe involves washing the starting material twice with a good solvent such as pure naphtha, to remove the available resin from the plant material. Naphtha has proven to be a very good solvent to produce the oil and in Europe it is often called benzine. The only solvents that I have direct experience with are ether, alcohol and naphtha. Ether is my personal favourite and it is a very effective solvent, but it is expensive and can be quite hard to get. I think the use of ether is better suited for closed distilling devices since it is very volitile and its fumes make it a bit dangerous to work with. Alcohol is not quite as effective as ether or naphtha as a solvent, since it is less selective in nature, but still it does work well. Alcohol will dissolve more chlorophyll from the starting material and due to this, oils produced with alcohol will usually be more noticeably dark in color. For a solvent to be effective it should be 100% pure and 100% pure alcohol is expensive and can be quite hard to find. Naphtha on the other hand is quite cheap to acquire and is usually not too hard to find. Many paint suppliers sell pure naphtha as paint thinners, so for the most part it is quite easy to get and next to the use of ether it is my solvent of choice.
All these solvents including alcohol are poisonous in nature, but if you follow these instructions solvent residue in the finished oil is not a concern. When you are done processing the oil after it cools to room temperature, it is a thick grease rather than an oil. The finished oil or in reality (grease) is about as anti poisonous as you can get. Even if there was a trace amount of solvent residue remaining, the oil itself would act upon it to neutralize any harmful poisonous effect. I don't recommend the use of butane as a solvent to produce this medication, since it is very volatile and would require the use of expensive equipment to neutralize the danger. Also using butane to produce the oil does not decarboxulate the finished product, so oils produced in this manner would be much less effective for medicinal use.
The starting material must be as dry as possible, it is then placed in a container of good depth to prevent the oil solvent mix from splashing out during the washing process. Once the starting material is placed in the desired container it is then dampened with the solvent being used, be sure the area you are working in is well ventilated and there are no sparks, open flames or red hot elements in the area. After the material is dampened it is crushed using a length of wood such as a piece of 2x2, after it has been crushed add more solvent until the material is completely immersed, in the solvent. Work the material immersed in the solvent for about three minutes, with the length of wood you used to crush it with. Then slowly pour the solvent oil mix off into another clean container, leaving the starting material in the original container, so it can be washed for the second time.
Again add fresh solvent to the starting material until it is once more immersed in the solvent then work it for three more minutes with the length of wood you have been using. Then pour the solvent oil mix into the same container that is holding the solvent oil mix from the first wash you did. Trying to do a third wash on the plant material would produce very little oil and it would be of little or no benefit as a medicine. The first wash dissolves 70 to 80% of the available resin off the starting material, the second wash then removes whatever resin that is of benefit that remains.
Use something such as clean water containers with a small opening at the top and insert funnels into the openings, then put large coffee filters in the funnels. Pour the solvent oil mix from the first and second washes into the coffee filters and allow the solvent oil mix to drain through the filters to remove any unwanted plant material. Once the solvent oil mix has been filtered it is now ready to have the solvent boiled off.
Use an inexpensive large rice cooker with an open top that has both high and low heat settings to boil the solvent off the oil. Make sure that the rice cooker is set up in a well ventilated area and place a fan near by to blow away the fumes as the solvent boils off. Rice cookers are designed to not burn the rice as it cooks and the temperature sensors that are built in, will automatically put the cooker back on the low heat setting if the temperature within the cooker begins to get to high. When producing oil if the temperature gets too high it will vaporize the cannabinoids off the oil and of course you do not want this to occur. That's the reason I strongly recommend the use of a rice cooker to those who have never produced oil before since it eliminates any danger of this happening, if the rice cooker is working properly.
Make sure there are no sparks, open flames or red hot elements in the area while you are filling the rice cooker or boiling the solvent off, because the fumes produced from the solvent are very flammable. I have used this same process thousands of times and have never had a mishap, but for your own safety please follow the instructions, I also caution you to avoid breathing in the fumes that solvents produce. Fill the rice cooker until it is about three quarters full, this allows room for the solvent oil mix to boil the solvent off without spilling over. Put the rice cooker on its high heat setting and begin boiling the solvent off, as the level in the rice cooker drops continue to carefully add the solvent oil mix you have remaining, until you have nothing left.
When the level in the rice cooker comes down for the last time and has been reduced to about two inches of solvent oil mix remaining, add a few drops of water to the solvent oil mix that remains. When I am boiling the solvent oil mix produced from one pound of starting material, I usually add 10 to 12 drops of water at this time. This small amount of water allows the remaining solvent to boil off the oil that remains in the cooker more readily. When there is very little remaining in the cooker, I usually put on a pair of gloves and then pick up the cooker and begin swirling its contents. Until the cooker automatically kicks off its high heat setting and then goes to low heat.
As the last of the solvent is being boiled off, you will hear a crackling sound given off from what remains in the cooker and you will also see quite a bit of bubbling taking place in the oil that remains. Also you will notice what looks like a small amount of smoke or steam, coming off the oil that remains in the rice cooker. But don't be concerned this is mostly just steam produced from the few drops of water that you added. After the rice cooker has automatically switched to its low heat setting, I take the inner pot out of the cooker and pour its contents into a small stainless steel container. There will be a small amount remaining in the pot that you will find almost impossible to get out, unless you use something like dry tobacco to absorb it while it is still warm. If you are a smoker such tobacco can be quite interesting to smoke since it is now laced with the oil and can get you quite high. But for medicinal purposes you might use dry bread to absorb the oil and then eat small amounts of this bread as a medicine. But remember this oil is very potent and its effects can sometimes take an hour or more to kick in. So be careful how much bread like this you consume, because it may put you to sleep for quite a few hours, just the same as the raw oil will do itself.
Take the oil that you poured into the small stainless container and put it on a gentle heating device such as a coffee warmer, to evaporate off whatever water remains in the oil.. Quite often it only takes a short time to evaporate the remaining water off, but also some strains produce more natural turpins than others. These turpins can also cause the oil you now have on the coffee warmer to bubble for quite some time and it may take awhile for such oils to cease this activity. When the oil on the coffee warmer has stopped bubbling and there is little or no activity visible, take the oil off the coffee warmer and allow it to cool a bit.
Then using plastic applicators or syringes with no needles, that are available in your local drug store. Use the plunger of the syringes to slowly draw the warm oil up into the syringes and allow it to cool. In a short time the oil will become a thick grease, sometimes the oil can be so thick that it can be hard to force it out of the syringes when cooled. If such a thing happens simply run hot water over the syringe and your doses can then be forced out much more easily. Sometimes a patient will force out too much oil, but if this happens just pull back on the plunger of the syringe and it can usually be drawn back into the syringe without too much difficulty.
On average if I have a dry pound of material to work with, it will require about two imperial gallons of solvent, or 9 liters which equals about 320 fluid ounces to do the two washes that are required. If you plan to produce the oil from less or more starting material, simply do the math to determine roughly how much solvent you will require. From start to finish it usually takes me about four hours to accomplish the whole process, then the medicine is sitting there ready to be used. I think these instructions should make producing this oil quite easy for anyone, but before you start make sure that you have everything you will need to do it properly.
At first it may seem daunting for some to try to produce their own medicine, but in reality this process is extremely simple. All you have to do is carefully follow the instructions and after you produce this medication a couple of times, you will find that it is not much harder to make than a cup of coffee. Once you have produced your own medication it takes all the mystery out of medicine and you no longer have to rely on doctors in most cases, for now you are your own doctor. Welcome to the world of real medicine, medicine that does no harm and is effective for practically all diseases and conditions and a wonderful natural medication that you now know how to produce yourself.
Best Wishes And Good Health
Rick Simpson
PS we bear no responsibility if this information is misused and it is provided for educational purposes only.
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